Har Ki Dun – Best Indian Trek Series – Trailaider

Har Ki Dun valley is beautifully placed in Govind Pashu Vihar National Park in the Garhwal Himalayas. The valley is also the base camp for Swargarohini Peak (21,000 ft), situated south-east of the Jaundhar Glacier.

It is also known as “stairway to heaven or Valley of Gods”.

In summers the valley is covered in green with wild flowers. The forests are colored; a rewarding sight for all and a paradise for bird-watchers. It’s an amazing experience to camp near the river enriched with flora and fauna.

In winters you will find the valley completely white. The valley is surrounded by snow capped mountains which is an amazingly sight to all.

The trail offers splendid views of the surrounding mountains, charismatic alpine meadows and beautiful birch and pine trees. Most of the time you will be walking along the River Tons which is as magnificent as the name sounds. You get breathtaking views of Banderpoonch, Swargarohini-I, II, III, and Black Peak. You can also see Ruinsara Peaks from here.

What to watch out for on Har Ki Dun Trek

Sankri

Sankri is the base camp for this trek; it has a small market area with a few dhabas, hotels and a shop for renting trekking gears. The drive from Dehradun is very pleasant taking you through some of the outstanding villages in the Western Himalayas like Nainbagh, Purola, Naitwar and finally Sankri; left turn from Naitwar will take you to Dhaula which is the base camp for Rupin Pass and Bharadsar Lake.

You can see Swargarohini Peaks glowing in bright orange called “alpine glow” in the evening over the ridges beyond Sankri. It is a quiet place but in the seasons it is usually filled with trekkers all over. It is also the base camp for Kedarkantha trek, Bali pass and Borasu pass.

Osla

The fact that “it is one of the few places in India where Duryodhana is worshipped” sets it apart from the rest. There is a temple dedicated to Duryodhana where locals gather to offer their prayers.

It will surely take you back to the ancient times by its ancient woodworking believed to be some 3,000 years old. The locals are very welcoming and on most of the occasions are happy to talk about their history. It gives you a prospect into their lives, how they live and think with almost no modern facilities.

This village will definitely force you to think how one can live with such simplicity.

Har Ki Dun Valley

Remember the landscape drawings that we used to draw as kids well this place is exactly that; we have got a forest rest house instead of a hut, a beautiful stream coming out from the glacier, marvelous mountains, wild flowers and the sunsets. The valley has it all. It is not just the camping near the river but the aura of the place. I could sit here all day every day looking at the valley without getting bored.

Har Ki Dun Peak is just in front of your eyes with some inspiring faces of Swargarohini Group of Peaks, Banderpoonch, Black Peak and even Ruinsara Peaks.

Jaundhar Glacier

The glacier is located south-east to the Har Ki Dun valley. The glacier is itself 14 km from the valley. The trail is very demanding except the first few km; it is wholly on the boulder section from there on to the glacier. The place is filled with Bhojpatra trees offers splendid views of the mountains surrounding it. You can see the glacier after trekking for some 5, 6 km. From there it feels like it is just there but far away from reach.

It is said that it was in close proximity to the valley but due to climate change the glacier is deteriorating year by year.

Important features about the Har Ki Dun trek

• Altitude: 11,900 ft
• Duration: 8 days
• Difficulty Level: Easy-Moderately difficult
• Total Distance Covered: Approx 50 km
• Best Time to visit: April-June and September-December
• How to Reach:

By Air: Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun is the closest airport about 27 km away from the city. Daily flights operate to Dehradun from major cities like Delhi, Mumbai etc. Come a day earlier if planning to come by flight.

By Railways: Dehradun Railway station is the closest railway station to Sankri about 220 km away. It is well connected to Delhi. Take the overnight train to Dehradun from Delhi.

• Nanda Devi Express: Train No. 12205, Departure – 11:50 PM, Arrival – 05:40 AM
• Dehradun Express: Train No. 12687, Departure – 09:10 PM, Arrival – 05:00 AM

By Road: There are buses from ISBT Kashmere Gate all day long to Dehradun. Tickets can also be booked online on respective state transport websites or from any booking website. Take an overnight Volvo Bus to reach early in the morning. Government buses are the most reliable as they drop you at the terminal which is not far from the main bus terminal.

You can easily find a bus to Sankri if transport is not booked in advance at the bus station. The bus service to Sankri starts at 5 am.

• Base Camp: Sankri/Taluka
• Minimum Age for the trek: 12 years (must have done a couple of easy treks). First timers can apply with some knowledge about trekking, good fitness level and a love for the outdoors.

Brief Description of the Har Ki Dun Trek Itinerary

• Day 1: Drive to Sankri (6,300ft) from Dehradun.
• Day 2: Drive to Taluka (7,950ft) from Sankri (6,300ft) and trek to Puani Garat (8,250ft)
• Day 3: Trek to Kalkatiyadhar (9,950ft) from Puani Garat (8,250ft)
• Day 4: Trek to Har Ki Dun Valley (11,700ft) from Kalkatiyadhar (9,950ft)
• Day 5: Excursion day at the Valley. Trek to Jaundhar Glacier (approx 14,000ft) or Marinda Tal (approx 12,000ft).
• Day 6: Trek to Puani Garat (8,250ft) from Har Ki Dun Valley (11,700 ft) via Osla (9,100ft)
• Day 7: Trek to Taluka (7,950ft) from Puani Garat (8,250ft). Drive to Sankri (6,300ft)
• Day 8: Drive to Dehradun from Sankri.

Detailed Description of the Har Ki Dun Trek Itinerary

Day 1: Drive from Dehradun to Sankri

• Altitude: Sankri (6,300ft)
• Distance: 220km drive via NH-507
• Time: Approx 8-10 hours

Reach early in Dehradun and head to the tiny hamlet called Sankri. The drive itself is very pretty taking you through some pretty villages like Nainbagh, Purola, Netwar and finally Sankri. Another village Dhaula is the base camp for Rupin Pass and Bharadsar lake trek which is on the left side road from Netwar.

You will reach Sankri by 5 pm. Check-in, get some rest and then stroll in the national park and watch the sunset as the sun rays brighten the Swargarohini.

Day 2: Drive from Sankri to Taluka. Trek to Puani Garat from Taluka.

• Altitude: Sankri (6,300ft) to Taluka (7,950ft) to Puani Garat (8,250ft)
• Distance: Sankri to Taluka (13km) and trek (10km)
• Time: An hour drive to Taluka and 4-5 hours trekking
• Water Sources: Plenty of water sources. Take 1L water.

Start the first day of trekking by taking a short drive to Taluka. The drive is one of the highlights of the day. It takes you through many tiny streams and gradually thickening forest along the way. The road ends at Taluka; there are a few shops where you can have tea and snacks before starting the trek to Puani Garat.

Today’s trail is an easy one first a steep descent to reach the floor of the valley then a mix of flat and gradual ascents along the river all the way to the campsite. The trail is exceptionally refreshing. Keep at the right bank of river to enter the thick pine and birch forest. Keep following the trail till you reach the first cemented bridge.

Cross the bridge and after a quick ascent reach a local dhaba, one of the many that you will come across. Take some rest and fill your bottles here.

The trail is well marked; follow the trail until you come across harvest fields of potato, millets and maize. Puani Garat is only a few minutes away; a beautiful grazing ground along the River Supin.

Day 3: Trek from Puani Garat to Kalkatiyadhar

• Altitude: Puani Garat (8,250ft) to Kalkatiyadhar (9,950ft)
• Distance: 8km
• Time: 6 hours
• Water Sources: Plenty of water sources. Take 1L with you.

Today is the toughest of this trek. Initially, a flat walk for half an hour until you come across a bridge followed by three steep ascents and then a few gradual ascents to reach Kalkatiyadhar.

Start on the same trail as yesterday. Just before reaching the bridge there is a dhaba on the left. Cross the bridge to come to the left side of the river and start climbing the first ascent. After reaching the top take the trail going towards the right. The left side trail will take you to Osla. It is a pleasant flat walk on the ridge before we get to our second ascent.

After the second ascent we descend to reach the third and final ascent of the day. There is a small dhaba at the base; you can order tea and maggi. Fill your water bottles here.

Keep climbing gradually after the third ascent for another hour until you reach the beautiful meadow of Kalkatiyadhar. Find a peaceful spot to camp and rest.

Day 4: Trek from Kalkatiyadhar to Har Ki Dun Valley

• Altitude: Kalkatiyadhar (9,950ft) to Har Ki Dun (11,700ft)
• Distance: 6km
• Time: 4 hours
• Water Sources: Plenty of water sources. Take 1L with you.

The trail is a mix of gradual ascents and steep ascents.

Campsite offers exhilarating views of the valley and the mountains in it. The route is often traversed by the shepherds who are always looking for some place where their herds can graze. You will find a few of them on the trail.

The first stop is near the beautiful waterfall with a shop around it. It is a beautiful place and many people take bath in the waterfall. There is a steep ascent just after the waterfall; you need to cross the stream and walk through the forest to come into a clearing. It is a flat walk in the clearing for half an hour and then a steep ascent. Keep climbing gradually after the ascent to reach the Har Ki Dun Valley.

Find a suitable place to camp although campsite on the right side of the river is much quieter.

Day 5: Excursion Day. Trek to Jaundhar Glacier/Marinda Tal.

• Altitude: Jaundhar Glacier (14,000ft) or Marinda Tal (12,000ft)
• Distance: 14km to Jaundhar Glacier and approx 3km to Marinda Tal
• Time: A day to go to the glacier. A couple hours to Marinda Tal.
• Water Sources: Plenty of water sources. Take 2L with you in case you are going to Jaundhar Glacier.

You can either go to Jaundhar glacier which is around 14 km from the valley in the south-east direction. Follow the trail going in that direction. The trail is well marked for a few kilometers till you reach the boulder section. You can see the destination from here but it is a tough and unforgiving trek to the glacier. It is best to keep a day extra for camping if you are surely going to Jaundhar Glacier. Most organizations will take you to the boulder section where you can see the glacier and return to the valley campsite.

Marinda Tal is on left side of the campsite. There is a well marked trail as well although the Tal is not very big but it is a good place to relax.

You can even relax on the Har Ki Dun campsite itself. Sit by the river or hike up the ridge where you can see the whole south-east side of the valley offering splendid views of the mountains.

Day 6: Trek from Har Ki Dun Valley to Puani Garat via Osla

• Altitude: Har Ki Dun (11,700ft) to Puani Garat (8,250ft) via Osla (9,100ft)
• Distance: 14km
• Time: 6-8 hours
• Water Sources: Plenty of water sources. Take 1L with you.

Trace back your steps to reach the first ascent of day 2 of trekking. Remember you took the trail on the right to reach Kalkatiyadhar. Instead of going down, go straight for another half an hour to reach the ancient village of Osla. There is a shop with landline; you can make phone calls if the networks are there. Visit the Duryodhana temple, appreciate the woodworking on the houses and talk to the locals.

After relaxing for sometime follow the trail going down the village. The trail is a mix of gradual descent to steep descent. Once you reach down, cross the bridge to reach the dhaba. Relax for sometime here, have a cup of tea and move forward to the campsite which is just a few minutes away.

Day 7: Trek to Taluka from Puani Garat. Drive to Sankri from Taluka.

• Altitude: Puani Garat (8,250ft) to Taluka (7,950ft) to Sankri (6,300ft)
• Distance: 10km
• Time: 6 hours
• Water Sources: Plenty of water sources. Take 1L with you.

Take the same route back to Taluka through the forest along the left bank of the river. Take a taxi to reach Sankri and relax. You have successfully completed the trek.

Day 8: Drive from Sankri to Dehradun.

• Altitude: Sankri (6,300ft)
• Distance: 220km via NH-507
• Time: 8-10 hours

Take the same route which you took to come to Sankri. You should reach Dehradun by 4 pm.

There is a government bus which leaves around 5:30 in the morning; you can’t miss the horn. Check bus timings the previous evening.

Fitness Requirements for Har Ki Dun Trek

Har Ki Dun Valley trek is an easy to moderate difficult trek. It requires a good level of fitness to complete the trek without much difficulty.

You can start by HIT (high intensity training) 3 months prior to the trek. You can go swimming, cycling, dancing etc. Start lifting weights if you like, climb stairs instead of lifts and elevators. Start slowly with a steady increase in pace and intensity.

Practice Yoga and Asana. It helps you in regulating your breath on ascents and descents. It’ll also help you in keep calm under difficult situations.

What to take on Har Ki Dun Trek

In order to successfully complete the trek, make sure you have all the necessary clothing, equipment, protective gear, medical kit and permission(s) from the respective forest department(s).

Basic Gear:

• Back pack and rain cover (50-60l with good back support and overall balanced structure)
• Day Pack + rain cover
• 2 Trek Pole (1 is better, 2 are awesome)
• Head Torch
• 2 Water Bottles/Hydration Pack

Medical Kit: One Strip of each

• Paracetamol, Ibuprofen
• Diamox, Dexamethasone and Nifidipine (High Altitude must have meds)
• Pain Relief Spray
• Cough and Cold Tablets
• Antibiotics (Azithromycine, levocitrizine etc)
• Crepe bandage, Bandages, gauze, band-aids, alcohol prep band (to clean your hands in case you operate on a wound)
• Wound closure strips

Stay Comfortable:

• 2 T-Shirts (full sleeves, preferably quick dry)
• 2 Trek Pants
• 1 Fleece
• 1 Down/Hollow fill Jacket
• Wind and Waterproof (jacket and pants)
• Thermal Inners (upper and lower)
• Poncho
• Waterproof and Warm Gloves

Steps are a must:

• Trekking Shoes (waterproof, high ankle)
• Floaters/Flip-Flops (optional)
• 3 pair of cotton socks
• 2 pair of woolen socks
• Gaiters
• Anti-fungal powder

Cover your Head:

• Sun Cap
• Woolen Cap
• Neck-Gaiters (if you feel very cold)
• Sunglasses: U/V protected. If you wear spectacles- either use contact lenses or photo chromatic glasses.

Personal Utilities:

• Sunscreen cream (SPF 50+ or more)
• Hand sanitizer
• Toilet paper and paper soap
• Toothbrush, toothpaste, face wash, soap and shampoo
• Lip Balm
• Quick dry towel
• Hand sanitizer
• Moisturizer

Permission:

If going with an Organization: Organization will handle all the permits and vehicle permission on their own. You only need to bring your government IDs.

If going solo or with friends: In this case, you’ll have to either take the permission from Govind Pashu Vihar National Park. You can either get permission from Purola checkpoint or upon reaching the park itself.

GPVN Park Contact No.: 01373-223433